Tag: big 3

How To Choose A Car Battery

Choosing a car battery can be a daunting task.  Last week I wrote a blog on understanding car batteries.  It would appear that you folks want an instructional on how to choose a battery as well.  Look no further.  We are here to feed your blog cravings and put a rest to all the confusion! If you have an audio system that is roughly 800 watts or more, than you will most likely need a battery.  Sit back, relax and get ready to receive some priceless knowledge to your cranium!

Watts

Kinetik HC1400

1500 Amp 12V Power Cell

The RMS wattage of your system is capable of will determine how big of a battery you will require.  All you need to do is take the CA (Cranking Amps) and match it to at least the amount of total watts your system is pushing.  For example, if you have a 1400 watt system, you will need at least 1400 cranking amps.  It doesn’t hurt to go a little above to say 1800 cranking amps.  Simple right? The Kinetic HC1400 would be the perfect choice for said system.

 

Dimensions

You might at first be hesitant to choose a battery because you are not sure if it will fit in the stock location under the hood.  There are two steps to ensure the dimensions are compatible with your vehicle.  First, measure the overall height including the posts of your current battery.  You want to make sure that your replacement battery does not protrude or surpass the battery posts of the stock battery.  In some cases, the aftermarket battery posts can be taller than the stock battery and still fit in the location.  Also, keep into consideration the post configuration to ensure you do not incorrectly connect the positive and negative terminals.   You must really use your own discretion because every vehicle is going to be different.  Second, check the length and width of the aftermarket battery to make sure it fits in the stock battery housing.  Once these two steps are completed, then you can compare your dimensions to the dimensions listed on our website.

 

Starter Versus Secondary Battery

Stinger SGP32

200 Amp Battery Isolator

A lot of people are under the misconception that just adding a secondary battery instead of replacing the starter battery is the best way to go.  If you add a secondary battery but keep the stock starter battery, than you will still have an inefficient lead-acid battery eating up all your alternator power.  There are a lot of advantages to replacing the starter battery first.  Your vehicles entire electrical system will be more efficient, your headlights be brighter, and you won’t have to deal with corrosion.  The typical reasons for which you should add a secondary battery are if your system is extremely high wattage, or if you are a pretty serious SPL competitor. If you must add a second battery, then a battery isolator will only be necessary if you want to run your system with your vehicle off for extended periods of time.  The isolator will ensure that the secondary battery is the dedicated battery for your audio system and will make sure that the starter battery is not drained.  It would be wise to choose a deep cycle battery for your secondary battery, if you’re using an isloator, as it will possibly be drained multiple times.  It never hurts to do the big 3 upgrade, too!  Attached is a knowledge base article to show you how:  “Big 3 Upgrade

There you have it.  Hopefully this clears up a lot of questions and has set you on the right path to choosing a battery that is right for you. Upgrading your battery will cause your sound system to be great success, very nice!

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The Big 3 Upgrade

By Kyle D. – Product Specialist

Let’s be frank for a minute, the factory wiring in your vehicle is simply not designed to handle the high current demand of aftermarket car audio systems. Stock wiring can handle a maximum of 600 to 1000 watt system depending on your vehicle make and model. While a basic sound system with an amplifier or two of low current draw tends to work on most vehicles, it’s when you start to turn up the volume or use higher output amplifiers that you see the effects. Dimming headlights and drops in voltage are common signs that you need to make the upgrade. The big 3 upgrade is used to make sure the power you need is getting to everything in your vehicle without additional resistance.  So what is the “Big 3”?

Upgrading the alternator wire to the battery, the negative battery cable to vehicle ground, and engine ground to chassis is considered the “Big 3” upgrade. To complete the upgrade you can either replace your factory wiring or simply run thicker cable alongside it, the choice is yours. Most big 3 upgrades are completed using 1/0 gauge wire for the best possible current transfer, if you’re unsure about what gauge wire to use, always go larger. With your factory wires replaced you might notice a sense of freshness to your vehicle. It may crank less before the engine turns over, you will get better system charging as well as little to no voltage drop. If your lights dimmed before they will dim less or stop dimming all together because of the increased current your electrical system will receive. The big 3 upgrade is a big solution!

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