Tag: Kinetic HC 1400

How To Choose A Car Battery

Choosing a car battery can be a daunting task.  Last week I wrote a blog on understanding car batteries.  It would appear that you folks want an instructional on how to choose a battery as well.  Look no further.  We are here to feed your blog cravings and put a rest to all the confusion! If you have an audio system that is roughly 800 watts or more, than you will most likely need a battery.  Sit back, relax and get ready to receive some priceless knowledge to your cranium!

Watts

Kinetik HC1400

1500 Amp 12V Power Cell

The RMS wattage of your system is capable of will determine how big of a battery you will require.  All you need to do is take the CA (Cranking Amps) and match it to at least the amount of total watts your system is pushing.  For example, if you have a 1400 watt system, you will need at least 1400 cranking amps.  It doesn’t hurt to go a little above to say 1800 cranking amps.  Simple right? The Kinetic HC1400 would be the perfect choice for said system.

 

Dimensions

You might at first be hesitant to choose a battery because you are not sure if it will fit in the stock location under the hood.  There are two steps to ensure the dimensions are compatible with your vehicle.  First, measure the overall height including the posts of your current battery.  You want to make sure that your replacement battery does not protrude or surpass the battery posts of the stock battery.  In some cases, the aftermarket battery posts can be taller than the stock battery and still fit in the location.  Also, keep into consideration the post configuration to ensure you do not incorrectly connect the positive and negative terminals.   You must really use your own discretion because every vehicle is going to be different.  Second, check the length and width of the aftermarket battery to make sure it fits in the stock battery housing.  Once these two steps are completed, then you can compare your dimensions to the dimensions listed on our website.

 

Starter Versus Secondary Battery

Stinger SGP32

200 Amp Battery Isolator

A lot of people are under the misconception that just adding a secondary battery instead of replacing the starter battery is the best way to go.  If you add a secondary battery but keep the stock starter battery, than you will still have an inefficient lead-acid battery eating up all your alternator power.  There are a lot of advantages to replacing the starter battery first.  Your vehicles entire electrical system will be more efficient, your headlights be brighter, and you won’t have to deal with corrosion.  The typical reasons for which you should add a secondary battery are if your system is extremely high wattage, or if you are a pretty serious SPL competitor. If you must add a second battery, then a battery isolator will only be necessary if you want to run your system with your vehicle off for extended periods of time.  The isolator will ensure that the secondary battery is the dedicated battery for your audio system and will make sure that the starter battery is not drained.  It would be wise to choose a deep cycle battery for your secondary battery, if you’re using an isloator, as it will possibly be drained multiple times.  It never hurts to do the big 3 upgrade, too!  Attached is a knowledge base article to show you how:  “Big 3 Upgrade

There you have it.  Hopefully this clears up a lot of questions and has set you on the right path to choosing a battery that is right for you. Upgrading your battery will cause your sound system to be great success, very nice!

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Car Audio Power Cells Vs. Capacitors

Kinetik HC 1400 Power Cell Car Battery vs Capacitor

By Ricky C. – Product Specialist

Finishing up a car audio system is a triumph in itself.  Making the last connections or crimping your last connector in place provides a unique feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment.  Now it’s time to listen to your system, you turn the keys and queue up your favorite track and enjoy you’re newly put together audio system for the first time.  After a bit of fine tuning you’re sitting back in your seat enjoying audio that’s beyond anything your vehicle was ever thought capable of.  On your first trip around the town you notice a flickering light in front of you.  That flickering light is you my friend.  Your headlights are dimming.

This is a common issue in car audio.  Your vehicle’s factory electrical system has about 30-40% reserved for things like Power Windows, Door Locks, Cabin Lights, and other electrically driven components. This leaves about 65% of your electrical system open for aftermarket audio equipment.  These figures are a rough estimate but are true for most vehicles.  Now that you’re adding an audio system with 800 watts of RMS power, how will this affect your vehicles electrical system?  In a lot of cases, you won’t notice anything immediately.  Sometimes you’ll notice dimming headlights within a week.  What you’re not noticing is a lot more important than what you are seeing.

Your electrical system will sometimes just need a small bandage to help store the power closer to your amplifiers.  This is where a Car Audio Capacitor can help you the most.  Let’s hypothetically say you are running anywhere from 500-800 watts of RMS power in your system.  A Car Audio Capacitor will hold a charge. That’s it.  It doesn’t regenerate charges or stabilize voltage; however some capacitors may have an LED display that shows you the voltage at the capacitor.  How this helps is during bass heavy music or just loud music that requires a lot of power at once.  Your capacitor can quickly discharge this power to your amplifiers and pull more charge from your battery.  This can be efficient and you can even hear a difference after adding capacitors in some cases.

A Power Cell will store a charge and also regenerate itself.  In situations where alternators are extremely stressed by working hard to meet up with the demand of power you will want to consider a power cell with dry glass matt technologies, like the Kinetik HC1400.  These are different from the standard Optima Red Top and Yellow Top batteries you see which are found to have a higher cranking amp rating as opposed to “Amp Hour” rating.  A high amp hour rating is important because this is basically your energy pool you can work off of.  This allows for the power cell to hold a larger charge so your alternator doesn’t have to work as hard to provide constant power.  In a lot of situations, a Power Cell like the HC1400 is the best option to help bandage a “bleeding” audio system, or to even help revive an alternator that is slowly dying.  It’s important to consider your electrical system before buying aftermarket equipment.

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